online resources for the stop motion animation community since 1999
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"I would stick with standard resolution video formats, like HD 1920 x 1080, or 1280 x 720. I use 1080p as my master, but often upload to YouTube or Vimeo at 720p. Those are 16:9 formats, but I see that you are using a 3:2 ratio - why is…"
"Thanks Nick - After seeing the way Premier Pro seems to slow down playback when linked to an AE file due to rendering, the method of having a rendered file in the editing program seems to be the way to go.
Slightly off topic - how does image…"
"I colour correct each shot and save it as a lossless QT mov. But I wrote down the settings I used in AE so I can do them the same. If I loaded 20 shots in at once, and saved them as one lossless QT mov file, it would be too big to move or back up, I…"
"Wow that one tended to stink. Yes it is a bit ametuerish, but it was before frame grabbers so I give myself a little break on it, plus I still really didn't know what they heck I was doing. Reading is very different than doing. also it was shot…"
Situation: I have a scene which has about 20 clips in it. After shooting the first ten, my lights went a little wonky, and I had to change the bulb. This affected the overall color of the subsequent shots. The first ten tend to lean toward a reddish hue, where the last ten are more yellow. After a couple of tests, I've determined that I can correct the color issue using After Effects.I've got a working edit in Premier Pro of the scene using uncorrected footage.Question: What is the best workflow for color corrections using PPro and AE?Is it best to do it one clip at a time using the dynamic link function and correct each clip on it's own in AE? Is it best to select the whole scene (all 20 clips) and bring it all into AE to color correct, and if so, is that something that should be done using keyframes to indicate where color correction should stop or change? Or, since it's pretty much the first half of the edit, select only the 10 clips in PPro and adjust those 10 in AE using dynamic…See More
"It was a shock to me, too the first time I tried softening it with water. It just fell apart and would never go back together. Strange to be oil/wax based and also water soluble. Makes you wonder how it would hold up in a humid area. I suppose it…"
"Once the plaster has gone through its reaction process to harden, I often warm it gently in the oven to get the chavant clay out. There is a Goldilocks zone when it is nice and soft and peels away from the mould, but not so hot that it is mushy."
"I usually don't coat the chavant with anything. Mostly it comes away cleanly from the plaster mould (Ultracal or Hydrostone, from Barnes Products in Melbourne, Sydney, and I think Brisbane). But on occasion, the plaster must have got pretty hot…"
"It doesn't harden at all. Non-drying, non-hardening. It has a variable softening point, but it's very narrow. That was to make it firm enough to scupt with but, with the heat of your fingers, flexible enough to bend."
"Flesh!Forgot to mention- this will never dry out or harden, despite water being a solvent for it. It can be frozen, however, which will make it as hard as Chavant for several minutes. You can spot-freeze it with a can of computer duster held upside…"
Situation: I have a scene which has about 20 clips in it. After shooting the first ten, my lights went a little wonky, and I had to change the bulb. This affected the overall color of the subsequent shots. The first ten tend to lean toward a reddish…Continue
Hey, I am just embarking on a new stop-motion project. The last film I made was on 16mm to give you an idea of how long it has been between drinks. I have made a sculpt of my protagonist and am ready to begin making a mold. All the research I have…Continue
Okay so I'm very new to this whole thing and pretty inexperienced. I'm taking on a 5-10 minute project which I want to produce to a fairly high standard, but I have limited resources. At the moment I'm favouring working with an armature.What I…Continue