I am having trouble getting consistent results while applying matting powder to my recently painted platinum Silicone casts.

   Sometimes they look evenly matted and nice, other times they have white streaky areas. 

   I've been painting a very thin layer (as thin as possible) of clear platsil gel-10 diluted down by half with naphtha.  Immediately after coating the cast, I take a fan brush and brush on the Fuse FX Matting powder. After 5 minutes or so I force-cure it with a heat gun and then rinse off the powder about 12 hours later.

My question is: What is the proper matting method? Am i not using enough clear coat? Should i wait a bit before brushing on the powder in order to avoid the white patches?

Views: 108

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Hmm. Initial thoughts are that the powder is getting mixed in with the silicone and therefore not washing off. I think you need to let the naptha evaporate before adding the powder. In other words you are rushing it a bit.

Apply the thin clear coat. Leave it for a while, until it has lost the naptha, then apply the powder and force dry.

I think perhaps you are still using to much silicone.I have not used this technique but all you need it to barely get a the silicone(think of it as if you sprayed a thin coat on the surface to tack the powder to) See how he hardly puts the silicone on.almost looks like nothing is being applied

Definitely agree with Greyguy's comment. The only reason for the thin coat is to get the powder to stick and create a rough surface (by which I mean micro indentations that reflect light inconsistently and therefore dissipate 'shine'). Less is more!

Thank you both for your replies!

I am about to try matting again, this time using less silicone and allowing time for the naphtha to evaporate.
Any advice on how long to wait? Is there a way to tell if all the naphtha is gone?
Would hitting it with a heat gun for 2 or 3 seconds evaporate the naptha in the same way?

Thanks again
Ok, I just finished matting another piece.

This time i brushed on a nearly invisible layer of silicone and fanned it with a sheet of paper for maybe 40 seconds before applying the powder.
The results looked great and had no streaks at all!

Thank you guys

Good stuff! Looking forward to seeing the final results!

As a matter of interest, naptha seems to evaporate very fast, and 40 seconds seems about right. You could basically leave the silicone until it starts to set off, but that might be risking not getting all the powder on, so something around a minute seems good.

I have been trying out d-limonene as a solvent (better for one's health, and smells nicely of oranges). This appears to retard the setting of Platsil to about 12 hours or so. At any rate, I leave the painting to set off overnight. And it doesn't evaporate anything like as fast as naptha, still seems to be there hours later. But it does the job of thinning the silicone to allow it to be painted on.

So... for long paint jobs the d-limonene is the ideal thinner, but for fast work the naptha does the job.

Reply to Discussion

RSS

STOPMO JAM on Facebook

Gumby Imagined, The Story of Art Clokey and His Creations

The ultimate Gumby retrospective packed with incredible photos and never-before-shared stories. Written by Art Clokey's children, Joan and Joe Clokey, this is the most comprehensive book ever published on Gumby, Davey and Goliath and their creator Art Clokey, a pioneer in stop-motion animation.

MESSAGE BOARD CATEGORIES

STOPMO NEWBIES
basic stopmo discussion

ANIMATOR TALK
experienced animators looking to improve

CAMERA & STAGE
animation camera, lighting and moco rigs

ANIMATION TOOLS & EQUIPMENT
animation tool and rigging discussion

STOP MOTION & COMPUTERS
frame capture, editing, and post-production

STORY
script, storyboarding and storyreel discussion

SOUND
lip-sync, sound effects and music

YOUR STOPMO FILM PROJECT
discuss your stopmo film

ARMATURES
ball & socket and wire armature discussion

MACHINE SHOP
metalwork tool & talk

SCULPTING
sculpture information and advice

HAIR & COSTUME
materials, patterns and technique

CASTING
foam, silicone and resin

CLAY
clay puppet construction

GENERAL PUPPET MAKING
other puppet fabrication issues

STOP MOTION SETS
set design and construction information

MODEL DEPARTMENT
miniature prop discussion

MATTE PAINTINGS
glass matte paintings and backgrounds

GENERAL SPECIAL EFFECTS

STOP MOTION FILM DISCUSSION

FAVORITE STOP MOTION CHARACTERS

PRO ANIMATOR DISCUSSION

FILM FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

ANIMATION SCHOOLS

STOP MOTION BOOKS

STOP MOTION ON VIDEO

JOBS & PROJECTS
post here if you are looking for talent to hire

SWAP MEET
stop motion items for sale

CHAT BOARD
general discussion

SITE FEEDBACK
report bugs, comments and suggestions here

SPAM ALERT!

StopMotionAnimation.com has been hit hard by spammers lately. They have been creating several fake accounts every day, contacting and harassing members and posting suspicious content. If you see anything suspicious, don't click on any links, instead, send me their User Name. I will suspend them. 

Questions & Feedback
Report Spam or Abuse

© 2018   Created by Anthony Scott.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service

.xg_widget_forum_index_index .xg_column.xg_span-7.xg_last {display:none;} .xg_widget_forum_topic_listForCategory .xg_column.xg_span-7.xg_last {display:none;} .xg_widget_forum_topic_show .xg_column.xg_span-7.xg_last {display:none;}