Part of a house I am building in 1/12 scale

Comment by Daniel Svensson on October 3, 2013 at 4:51am

amazing. Can you walk us trough the paintjob and patina? :)

Comment by Tim Daniel on October 3, 2013 at 12:54pm

Thanks Daniel. I would be happy to share.

The siding and window trim is all hand split cedar made from scraps of fence boards. The window is glass from a small picture frame from the thrift store, the blinds are made from a teabag with a small strip of wood glued and wrapped at the bottom. The finish is as follows.

Once built, before adding glass, the steps were as follows;

I spray painted the whole thing flat black.

Sponged on a mixture of white, antique white and sand acrylic paint.

wiped the sponge back and forth horizontally with very little paint on it to blend the sponging.

Did several ink washes with white acrylic artists ink over the whole house. 

Used a range of colours of Gouache (every colour I have, no black and white) to dot randomly over the entire surface. (This was by far the most lengthy part of the finish because the smaller the dots of colour, the better it looks so it's a bit tedious but well worth it) Keep in mind when I say dot I mean dot. I use a 10/0 brush and make the smallest dots I can. This is a technique I learned making model tanks and have heard it called many things but I am not sure what it is really called. The idea is to break up an unrealistically monotone colour on any surface along the same lines I think as making a palette with a range of colour tones which would works well for this too.

An important step in this stage is to quickly do a wash over the whole surface when you are done(I used another wash in white ink) but be careful to not brush the surface too much or it will wash the dots right off. I usually use a very wide and flat brush, dip it in water(or thinner if you are using oils) and GENTLY draw over the surface in the direction of gravity(from top to bottom) usually one or two passes is sufficient and this can also create some pretty cool streaking effects depending on the colours you use.(like burnt sierra for rust etc)

Then another wash in white ink over everything

then when that is 100% dry, a final coat or two of very diluted sepia acrylic ink to add the yellowy brown of age. The teabag window shade was assembled and then given a single sepia ink wash to get it to it's colour.

Then attach the window and Bob's your Uncle :)

Hope that helps.

Tim

Comment by Daniel Svensson on October 3, 2013 at 1:14pm

thank you so much! Thats superhelptful. Im building an old house myself for a short film Im in the process of making :)

Thanks for taking the time

Comment by Tim Daniel on October 3, 2013 at 5:47pm

Awesome. I am glad that was helpful. With the washes especially it really comes down to taste as to how light or dark you want your house to end up.  Good luck.

Cheers

Comment by StopmoNick on October 3, 2013 at 5:56pm

You can do the dots by dragging your thumb backwards across a toothbrush with paint on it, so the bristles flick forwards and spray a splatter of paint.   I never would thought of doing them individually, Pointillist style, with a super-fine paint brush!  (And if I had come up with the idea I might have thought, bugger that, too much like hard work...)  I salute your dedication!

I don't think I've ever seen a 10/0 brush - what is it, one hair?  The finest I used to get were Windsor and Newton 000 red sable brushes.  I don't know anywhere stocking the really high quality stuff anymore, it's all cheap acrylic brushes that don't hold their point for very long.   Mind you, for my sets I'm using what is basically acrylic accent base wall paint rather than gouache or inks, which would probably wreck the finest brushes. 

Really nice texturing on the boards, and I like the fine window trim (what do you call the framing between individual panes of glass?  That bit.)  looks great!

Comment by Tim Daniel on October 3, 2013 at 6:31pm

lol Thank you so much for the kind words Nick. They are not maybe the highest quality brushes and do require replacement as the tiny ends develop a curl but 10/0 is I believe one size down from 000 and you are close, it looks like about only 20 bristles ha ha I use to use it for detailing  my 1/72 and 1/35 soldiers painting tiny eyes, buttons and edges or lines with it. It seems a snap to paint anything else after you have done some painting so tiny it is like target shooting. lol I literally have to use the exact same breathing technique when painting that small as I do when target shooting.

I love the toothbrush flick. It is one of my favourites for doing mud splashes on vehicles but I don't see why I wouldn't be able to do add these dots like that too, just a flick of several colours. Great idea. I wonder if I will be able to flick on the gouache though as it is much thicker than the mud slurry I am usually slinging.  I wonder how it will hold up to the washes if I thin it too much. The gouache consistency may be what adds the effect leaving thin trails as it is washed away but I will give it a shot on a test piece.

Thank you very much. I really had fun hand whittling the tiny little window pieces to fit on the glass. I can't wait to add the blind pull to the blind too which will be on a track system able to animate up and down, coming soon. Thank you so much for your kind words. I see these things in my mind and just do what I can to bring them from my imagination to reality and I am only finished creating when the end result becomes the original

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