Canons are good about not overheating, Nikons on the other hand...unless they have worked it out in the last few years, but I wouldn't risk finding out the hard way. I guess it depends on how much you would like to spend on a Canon, you might want to look for a used one, or splurge on a 5dMIII, or perhaps the new mirrorless models may work well too. The 5d's are ' full frame ' [ 35mm sensor size ] most other models seem to be APS sized, which give you a 1.6 lens conversion factor [ something like a 50mm lens behaving more like an 80mm ]. T2,3,4,5i's are nice I guess. An older 40 or 50d is built tougher, but bigger and heavier. 60 and 70d's are overpriced in my opinion, 7d is really nice too.
Strider likes Panasonic GH series I think, the micro 4/3rds cameras.
Using vintage Nikon lenses on a Canon camera is a great method to avoid flickering images on playback, cheap Chinese adaptors are available on ebay.
Anyway, dig through the old posts, man, it's all here.
I have a 1000d and a T3i which are used for about 3 hours at a time most days, the T3i takes better shots. I use the vintage Nikon or Nikor lenses too with the Chinese adaptor. I would make sure you budget in for a decent power adaptor, I have had a couple of cheap ones which have caused loads of issues.
I’m considering buying the 600d/T3i. There are good prices on them here in Denmark right now.
By decent power adopter do you mean the original from Canon (ACK-E8)?
Not sure, I bought one from china for about £5 and the camera screen glitches out, I also have connection problems to the mac when I use the power adaptor. I get by with 2 batteries at the moment as I only shoot for 3 hours at a time. Maybe someone could link to an adaptor that works?
I use the original canon adapter for my t3i (same adapter as t2i)
It pays to not get the knock off, it's not worth losing hours of work to save some dollars. I debated on it because I didn't want to spend that much money, but I decided on the canon because I figure it saves on headaches and if I have to buy this item less times than it might even save on money in the long run.
So far I've used this for hours and hours of work, equal at least to a week of hours and I have had no issues with it.
Thank you all for your comments and help :-)
I decided on the 600D. Starting with the kit lens, which in this case is the 18-55 STM edition.
I only pay a little extra for kit lens, and I have an older Canon (EOS 400) on which I can use the ef-s 18-55 if it wouldn’t work for stop motion. But I will start with it for stop motion, and then latter buy a manual.
The 18-55 comes in different edition. The three editions are 18-55 III, 18-55 IS II and 18-55 IS STM.
Is one of them to prefer for stop motion (even they are not optimal), or doesn’t it matter?
The problem is, the Canon lenses do not have an aperture ring on the lens. It is controlled by the camera, and that means the lens has to be fully connected so all the electronic connections are working. It also means the iris in the lens will open up between shots to give you a nice bright view, then stop down to the aperture you have set when you press the shutter. This is normal for still cameras, but not so good for animation, because it may not always stop down all the way.
I think there is a work-around, where you set the aperture to the f-stop you want, then partly unscrew the lens to disable all the connections. I haven't tried it on the Canon, so I'm not sure if I have it exactly right.
It is better to use older manual lenses from other makers that have the aperture ring and focussing ring on the lens. With the adapter the camera has no control over focus and exposure, so they stay where you put them, and do not try to adjust all the time.
Can I use any manual lens with an aperture ring as long as there’s a lens adapter for an EOS body?