Is there any way to thicken latex? I found stuff called " Latex Thickener" in a craft shop. Anyone know of any other methods?

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I've got some of that myself and it does the job. But I believe that it compromises the strength and elasticity of the latex somewhat. Correct me if i'm wrong.

There's a fairly comprehensive thread about this subject here (Mostly on the first page with a few ideas) :

http://www.sculpture.net/community/showthread.php?t=2977

I've used plain white cooking flour before. It makes it a little more likely to tear tho', so don't use a lot.The sea monster I made didn't have enough texture when on camera, so I just built some up with the flour and latex- it worked great!

I was about to say I think just about any powder would do the trick - just something to thicken it. I was thinking maybe baking powder or baby powder. 

But yeah, the more you add the weaker and less flexible the latex will become - you don't want to add any thickener where you need it to be strong and stretchy and flexible. But feel free to use it for making warts and spines and lumps etc. 

Thats what I was going to use it for.

Strider said:

I was about to say I think just about any powder would do the trick - just something to thicken it. I was thinking maybe baking powder or baby powder. 

But yeah, the more you add the weaker and less flexible the latex will become - you don't want to add any thickener where you need it to be strong and stretchy and flexible. But feel free to use it for making warts and spines and lumps etc. 

Don't add dry powder to the latex, it will form lumps.  Mix the powder with a little water first.

Baking powder would fizz a bit I think...

I used to use latex with fillers in it for casting sculptures and props a lot - it built up to a thicker wall more quickly, and held it's shape better.  It didn't tear, and was still flexible, but lost most of the stretching ability.

There was even one with so much filler it was marketed as a substitute for porcelain for making rigid doll's heads, but I never tried that.  But that was years ago and the companies that made it are long gone.   I think I have seen some on US websites with some added filler though, wish I could get it here.  I would still mostly use the thin latex for puppet building, to retain maximum flexibility.

I haven't been able to duplicate the thicker latex by adding powder to my thin spraying latex - I've tried talc, which almost worked, but the latex didn't keep as long afterwards before it dried on the surface and then set.  I tried Q-cell microballoon filler for a lightweight mix, but  after a day the Q-cell all floated to the top and formed a crust.  

I can only buy the latex with the chemical thickener added here, and it makes it thicker to pour or brush on, but not really any stiffer once it's set.

The thing is, the latex I have is very watery and making detail on the face like warts and wrinkles is proving quite a challenge.

Corn starch mixed with distilled water (mix it it separately and then add it in slowly). Don't use tap water, as it will make the latex grow moldy.  You could also start with  thicker latex, like Woodland Scenics (purchased through a model train shop) and mix that with your watery latex.

If you want to go the more expensive route, Cab-O-Sil was recommended on an FX forum. Good luck!

See; look at the texture on his back-that was done with flour and latex...but the model was cast in R&D foam first, but the texture that was in the original sculpture didn't  "READ" on film, so that's when I built up the stuff on his back. http://www.stopmotionanimation.com/photo/aosma-movies-bermuda-15-hv...

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Puppet Putty is formulated by clay animator Don Carlson. Properties include colors that do not bleed on your hands, a matte finish, cleans up with water, is very light weight, firm, non-greasy and has a silky texture.

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