hello to all

is a long time since I know this forum and now it's time for me to start doing silicone puppet
I would like to buy Platsil gel 10 + Silc Pig + Naphtha
I would like to make small hands but I read on the forum that Plat sil gel 10 is not the best material. Then I made a mold to make a facial skin to a puppet in the style of corpse bride that I would then paint with Silc Pig.
Can anyone tell me if I'm following the right way to do this?
I also read that someone is experimenting with other types of silicone, with better results?

always thanks for the valuable tips that are very useful as an experiment you spend a lot more money $ $

:)

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That sounds right to me.
Silc Pig is not a paint, it is a pigment that you mix with some silicone to make a paint. You can use a little more of the Platsil to paint the puppet. You also can mix some pigment into the platsil that you use to cast the puppet, so it has a good base colour.

I don't like silicone for hands, unless it is a full body and the hands are part of it. It is too easy for the wires to poke through the silicone after you have been animating them for a few shots. If the puppet is wearing clothing, I make separate hands. My favourite method for small hands is to build up layer of latex over the wire.

hi Nick

yes, I want to create separate hands from the body and skin heads.
 Smith's Theatrical Prosthetic deadener is good and usefull? I understand that does not give good results.

I have read on the forum that someone is trying the silicone DL-1000, you have tried?

about hands in latex, you make a mold anyway?

thanks!

I can't buy the silicone DL-1000 in my country (Australia) so I have not tried it.

Smith's deadener makes the silicone a little softer, but always stays sticky.  So only use it for pouring inside, not for the skin.  I have some but I don't use it now.  I use a softer silicone like Dragonskin Ecoflex 00-30 inside, which is softer than adding deadener to Platsil gel-10, but does not stay sticky.  That helps to make heads more flexible so the mouth can open wider.  Polytek, makers of Platsil Gel-10, also make a softer silicone which I have not tried yet.

Hands do not need softer silicone, use shore A hardness 10 (like Platsil Gel-10) for hands.

I am not the best person to advise on silicone - for the last 2 puppets I went back to casting in foam latex, because it is much lighter, and can be painted better.  I will be casting another foam latex puppet today.  I will still use silicone for some puppet heads,  if they are smooth and should not wrinkle, like children or young women.  But for monsters or old people I don't think I will use it again.  

The only real solution to the weight of silicone I know of is to fill the skin with a silicone foam, Soma Foama, but I can't buy that here.  So someone in the USA, who has more materials available, would know more about silicone casting.

For small hands I don't make a mould. I paint layers of latex over the wire to build up the hands.  With thin fingers, the seam line is almost as wide as the finger, so by the time it is patched up, it is almost built up anyway.  If I build it up directly, there is no seam line, and the finger can be as thin as I want.  So for a puppet like the 3 boys in my Harryhausen birthday tribute, the hands are latex build-up, the body is urethane foam cut with scissors, and the head is silicone.

For bigger hands, I make a mould.  The seam line does not seem as big, and I get the benefit of sculpting details on the back of the hand.   If the hand is part of the body, it is part of the same mould. The hand is cast the same as the rest of the body, in foam latex or in silicone.

Hi

about the colours, I would bay the silc pig, you testested some acrilic or oil paint

they works?

thanks

I've used Acrylic in tin silicone for intrinsic coloring, meaning when you mix the colorant with the main silicone piece.  It works OK.  I like SilcPig better.  I've not tried it when mixing up as paint with thinned silicone.

For platinum silicone I've only used SilcPig as intrinsic coloring.

Thanks for advice

Do you know the difference between tin sil and plat cure? why plat cure is better for stop motion

I don't think one is inherently better for stopmo than the other.  I read somewhere that on Coraline they worked with a silicone company to come up with a tin based formula that was better in some ways than the usual offerings in both tin and platinum.  And I'm pretty sure Corpse Bride used a variant of GI-1000 for the faces.

I could list the few things I know about the technical differences, but that's not going to be of much help.  Generally, platinum molds have a longer life on the shelf and can produce more casts before deteriorating.  Tin molds become brittle after a few years.

On the other hand, tin is easier for novices to work with because it's easier to make it cure.  Platinum won't cure if you use sulfur clays and so on.

So from that standpoint, professional users of silicone tend to prefer platinum because they're looking at long-term/larger scale uses.

http://www.daleykreations.com/6/post/2013/01/what-is-the-difference...

ok! good

Have tested Gl-1000 or platsil gel?

I tried and tried to reply to this posting while I was away on vacation this week but I was having internet trouble and my comments kept disappearing! But I'm back home now and I'll throw my 2¢ in here now...

I cast with Platsil Gel 10 and I moved away from using the Silc-Pig pigments based on price alone, they're just way too damned expensive! I found that tinting with airbrush acrylics works very well and I've even tried to over tint it just to see if it would inhibit the cure if I added too much but, it has always cured for me without a problem. (meaning that I can tint it as opaque as I need to)

As for finger wires poking through, that is a problem but you can wrap the wire with thread to give the silicone something to bond to so it won't slide as easily. Areas on puppets where I worry about the possibility of ripping, I embed nylon fabric (panty hose) and that cures that problem for the most part.

Should you ever get a rip anyway, you can repair it with more of the same silicone but, that's not always very effective because that seam will still be vulnerable to ripping open again in the same spot. I found a primer that you can treat the rip with that will enable you to use super glue, it's called 'Loctite 770'. All you do is brush some on and it instantly makes the rubber ready for super glue... so if you have a finger wire pop out, you can prep the hole with that primer and seal it with super glue and it won't come out anymore.

I have only used the platinum cure silicone so, I can't help you out with advice on the difference between that and tin cure. I've heard that the platinum cure silicones have more stretch and my puppets are generally full body castings (not just heads and hands) so I need as much flexibility as I can get.

does anyone know if the gel coat or epoxy resin inhibits the platinum cure silicone like platsil gel 10 or others platinum silicon

thanks

They do not inhibit curing.  Those are commonly used materials.

good!

thanks

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