Hi everyone

I'm working on a puppet of a girl, and I want to use silicone for the skin. I tried to make it of Dragon Skin 10 but the result goes too smooth and looks very doll like - as in the picture here:

I want to get a realistic-looking skin. Is there any other type of silicone that is more suitable for this purpose? Or is there a problem with the model -should I make it less smooth or something?

And - what is the recommended way to make face replacements? She doesn't speak, but needs to change facial expressions - eyes widened and narrowed, smile, mouth open and closed. (I want to make the whole puppet from silicon because she wears very little). Should I replace the whole head or just the face, or maybe build a face armature? (the body has a boll and socket armature combined with wire)

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That looks ideal. Funny that it claims to have no VOCs, but says that it is flammable. I wonder if it is just naptha re-packaged. Lighter fluid is not expensive.
I think the matt effect comes from whatever powder you use, which gets incorporated into the silicone itself.

I made my first silicone mould (1st half) today.

I have to ask... how do you guys clean up the mixing cans? And the stirring sticks? The silicone is really, REALLY annoyingly sticky. I used paper tissues (that I threw in the garbage bin), but that could've worked better.

Or, now that I'm thinking.. do you just let the silicone dry into the can and then peal it off?

I mix silicone in plastic containers that once held yoghurt or something.  Once set, the silicone may peel off, but if there is a thin coating of unmixed residue left behind I just throw it out and eat more yoghurt!  You can buy packs of ice cream sticks, 50 or so, so those are disposable as well.

I use metal sculpting tools to mix with, so they can be wiped clean or left with the silicone on to set. Yoghurt pot demand often outstrips supply in this household!

Hi guys

I need to buy some hair for the new puppet, what kind of hair do you recommend?

For this one I used Linen fiber but it gets messed up pretty quickly. I also need to animate the hair - there's a lot of wind in the film..

I heard some use thin copper wire, but I want the hair to look realistic.

There's a nice looking Tibetan lamb doll hair on e-bay, maybe it can fit?

Thanks a lot

Yoghurt containers. Should've thought out that myself. :)

Another question: if I brush-on paint the mould with Psycho paint, how do I clean the brush? White spirit? Or do I paint with some stick?

@Hani.  Hair is problematic, although if it needs to be windy and animated, that sort of solves the issue of it tending to flick around. I am currently using some mohair, bought in a mixed bag: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60g-PREMIUM-MOHAIR-MIXED-BAG-/28118171113...

Have also used crepe hair, which is coarser. Adding lots of hairspray (which is cellulose varnish anyway) will help control it, and hats are great for making sure it all stays put!

Quite a lot of people seem just to mould hair onto the heads, to avoid the issue of boiling when handling on set. Nick mentioned having a socket in the scalp to insert a rod, so that one could move the head without touching the hair.

@Jani Clean brushes by: squeezing as much psycho paint off it first with a blunt blade/spatula, and wiping with kitchen roll. Then use a little naptha to finish the job. I do find that painting with bits of sponge held in some tweezers is good, and you can just throw out the sponge afterwards. It gives a good stipple effect. But for painting into a hollow or fold, you do need a brush.

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