Hello fellow stop motion-ers!

I have managed to teach myself enough to make a few stop motions, but I still don't quite understand what type of lighting/bulbs to use to prevent the subtle flickering throughout an animation? I want to be able to achieve a clean, consistent look but I don't really have the money to spend on professional Dedo lights and the like.

Does anybody have any wisdom or advice on the subject? Any help at all would be hugely appreciated!

Below is a link to my latest attempt at stop motion. The flickering effect almost suits the tone of the film here, but I would love to know how to control it for future animations. 

http://vimeo.com/94972892

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Used a small incandescent candelabra bulb hooked up to a Dragonframe DDMX-S2 light controller. It also requires a DMX dimmer. They are pretty reasonably priced and can be found in DJ supply stores or on Amazon. Dragonframe allows you to keyframe the flickering of the lights.

https://www.dragonframe.com/store/DDMX-S2.html

I have LED bulbs that will not dim at all, despite being rather expensive. My CFL spiral bulbs don't dim either... Still a fan of Halogen (spot, flood, clear, and soft). The PAR 20's are getting harder to find in some stores, which is a bit dismaying, but they've been replaced with a partially frosted track lighting bulb which is very similar (and which comes in spot or flood). Some newer LED's are dimmable down to 5%, but I've only read about them. Being able to dim your lights can be very nice, especially if you want to animate them brightening or dimming. Looking forward to when I can find CFL's and LED's that dim. Halogens shouldn't flicker at all even when dimmed because they have a tungsten filament.

I should mention, the HUE lights from Phillips can't be controlled through Dragonframe. The wifi built into the lights causes all kinds of problems. I'm assuming they need full power to work.

Halogens don't flicker if the power supply is steady. But in my area, it is only steady between 1 AM and 5 AM. If that is the cause of flicker, you need to filter the power, or to find lights that don't respond to small changes in power like 1 or 2 volts. Which means they can't be dimmed with a dimmer either. That's a pity, dimming is useful. But there are other ways - you can use neutral density gels, fly wire, or diffuser to reduce the light, or just move that light further away.
It's true there are other causes of flicker, other than the lights actually changing in brightness. I got flicker on a model car with a shiny paint surface because it was picking up light from my computer screen, and I was standing in front of it when I took the shot, but not always in the same spot. A white Tshirt can reflect light onto the set too. And there can be hidden auto functions in the camera settings where it is trying to make adjustments for you. My first shot with a Canon 7d flickered becuse it had some kind of exposure compensation on by default, that wasn't in any of my previous cameras. Once I went through all the menus and disabled it, it was fixed.
I never had flicker (literally, never) until getting the Canon DSLR (which I've since pawned). Not sure why I've been so lucky, and this was even in a house that had some backwards wiring in the outlets.

I might have blamed my Canon 40d, but I set my old Nikon up next to it, and a multimeter in the shot that was connected to the incoming mains voltage, and images from both cameras got brighter and darker on the same frames, and the needle of the meter went up on the brighter ones.  Just to speed the test up, I turned my big latex-baking oven on and off a few times to drop the voltage, so I didn't have to wait for the factories in the next block to draw more power and do it.

I was getting this flicker at the ABC too, but I noticed it much more with a digital SLR than with 16mm or 35mm film.   So I'm thinking the DSLRs are particularly sensitive to these small changes in brightness.  It's not due to exposure time, I used the same 1/2 sec to 1 1/2 sec exposures on the DSLR that I used on film.

Chiming in way late here but,

Most of the flicker in that film looks more likely to be coming from where you (or other people/objects) are standing in the room when you capture a frame. Depending on your exposure settings and the ambient light/bounce in the room this effect can be almost nonexistent or very pronounced. 

I've had to duck completely below the set and banish other people from the stage to get rid of light shifts on some projects. 

You can even test it without animating anything, just capture a series of shots with you standing or leaning in different ways/places. Then do a series while you stand completely still. If that is the casue you will see light shifting in the first take and not in the second.

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