Hello hope this is the right place to wright for help but yes I'm looking for assistants on how to create super articulated spider legs 4 to be exact I will post some pics of what im hoping to create with the help of the community of this lovely website thank you!.
Thank you sir for your awesome in depth comment it helped me understand so much! cant thank you enough or anyone that has taken the time to answer my many noobish questions I'm really hoping this works out so i can share my results on this website THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP!!!!! I'M SUPER EXCITED TO GET STARED.
This spider has wire in the legs - 2 strands of 1.5mm (1/16th") aluminium armature wire in each leg if I remember correctly. It is bigger than a real spider, but smaller than the legs you would make for your 6" figure, but I think 2 stands of wire that 1/16th" wire would still be about right.
To answer your question - 1.5mm (1/16th") and 3mm (1/8th") are the most common sizes of wire for stop motion armatures, but there are many sizes. Heavier stuff can be good for supporting rigs, but not much use for puppet armatures. I use a thinner 1mm wire twisted together for fingers. If you can't get it at a local art supply store, one online supplier in the US is Whimsie, look at the Soft Round Aluminum Wire: http://www.whimsie.com/aluminum%20craft%20wire.html?gclid=CJSi4bjR6...
1mm wire is also called 18 gauge. Their 1.6mm, or 14 gauge, is about what I would use for these legs. The 2mm or 12 gauge is also a really useful size once you get up to 9 or 10 inch tall puppets. My adult human puppets are usually 10 to 12 inches tall and would have 2 strands of 3mm wire in each leg and up the spine. For a 6 or 7 inch tall human I would use the 1.5mm wire.
I didn't put tubing on the legs, but I did paint some 5 minute epoxy glue on the wires, in between the joints, to slightly stiffen them. In your size, a little epoxy putty could be added to build up the "bones". Like Dave said, try to leave a gap of half an inch if you can, so the wire isn't forced to bend in one tiny spot. I twist my wires very loosely, overtwisting can make the wire more prone to breakage. After the glue set, I dabbed on layers of latex to build up the shapes of the legs.
This spider had to run across a wall, and on a spiderweb made of fishing line, and the two wires came in handy for that. On the wall or a tabletop, one wire poked into a small hole to help locate the foot, the other wire stayed out and made a tip to the leg. On the spiderweb, the two wires gripped it like tiny crab claws to hold it in place. Not as secure on the wall or table as threaded tiedowns, but the there was no room to fit those into the skinny leg tips.
Wire is much cheaper and quicker than making ball joints, and doesn't require much in the way of tools. (Or experience with precision drilling hard metal, and silver soldering.) The body had a small block of wood in it, so I drilled holes to glue the wire into, but if you don't have a drill or saw to cut the block you can leave out the wood block, just twist the wires together and squish some epoxy putty over it to bind it all together and make the body block. I've used wire armatures for many professional film projects, and if you make good use of your frame grabber, you can get good results with it. A well made baljoint armature is better, but a poorly made one is much worse than wire.
Obviously a spider backpack is a very different shape, but i would make it in much the same way as I do a human body like the one in this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbF6m3BeGUQ
I agree with Nick about the putty or epoxy to "bone" the arms and legs (to borrow a CG term) and meant to mention that, but was tired. The cool thing about the smaller gauges of aluminum wire, is that you can create the illusion that each leg has sharp bends if you use a single piece of strong aluminum wire (you might even look at uncoated, annealed steel floral wire). To make the bones stick on single wires, you take an extra long piece of wire for each leg and make little loops along it, and flatten them so that they look like squashed "zero's". Now, when you add the epoxy, it can grab on the loop you made because you just created more surface area to prevent the epoxy from spinning on the wire. Single wires are generally not ideal for puppet legs because they break, *but* you can design them to make them plug into the body, so that when a leg breaks, you just plug in a replacement leg. Make sure to space the bones out enough to give a smooth bend and not a sharp one, and the wire will last longer while, depending on the scale of the spider, still maintaining the illusion that the legs are bending at sharp angles.