I recently purchased a Canon Rebel T5 (not T5i) and I need to buy a Nikon lens and lens adapter for it. I thought that would be easy but I've been frustrated for days trying to figure out what to buy. All I want is a basic standard lens. (I was advised to get a macro lens because they're a better quality)

I've never purchased a lens or an adapter before and when I started looking for options I was stunned by how many there are of both. There aren't so many adapters but, I can't seem to figure out what one works best with each lens or if it even makes a difference. One of the adapters has a long list of cameras it works with and the Rebel T5i is on the list but not the T5. From everything I read, it looks to me like those two models are pretty much the same except that the T5i has more digital whiz-bang electronics and a touch screen and so I figure it should accept the same lenses but, I have no idea.  I do know I need a 'D-series' manual aperture lens.

I think I know what I need to buy but, I'm nervous that I'm going to waste time buying the wrong thing. So does anybody have any clues, tips or pointers that can help me?

This is embarrassing because I've been in this business for so many years I should know this stuff but, I've always gotten by with cheap equipment or was shooting with someone else's camera. Now I finally have the cash to get my own stuff and I'm like "Duh... what do you mean 'other lens'"?

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Cool hopes it arrives is perfect condition. I also noticed that the site is odd looking ... not the normal black background. Preferred it the other way.
... jbd

I just checked the Canon T5 at dpreview.com, and yes, it says the viewfinder has 95% coverage.  This is pretty common with DSLR cameras - my mid-range Canon 40d is the same.   The 7d has 100% coverage, which is better, but I can't say I've noticed a difference in how I work.  I often enlarge the view in Dragonframe so the edges are cut off a little anyway, just to get it bigger so I can see smaller moves.   Bolex viewfinders cropped the frame too, but Mitchells actually showed a bit extra so you could see your puppet before it got into frame.  Not so bad with DSLRs anyway, the image is big enough you can crop it a bit.

I hope the lens is a good one - you can't really tell until you have it in your hands, and on your camera.   Not too far away - I looked and it showed a whopping $49 shipping charge, but that is probably because eBay knows I am in Australia and it's calculating it for me, not you. 

The shipping on it was only $10 and so I ended up getting both the lens and adapter for only about $90!!! I spent so much less than I was expecting to that I may look at getting some additional lenses now.

I couldn't wait to get the new lens because curiosity was killing me, so yesterday I shot 3.5 seconds of a worm wiggling around and I didn't notice any flicker at all with the Canon lens that was on the camera to begin with. But I'm still glad I ordered the Nikon and the adapter just to be sure.

Thanks for checking into the cropped border issue Nick. I'll just need to compensate for that when shooting Dynamation. I guess I'd just add an equivalent border around the live action plate and plan to crop off the same border from the animation frames. That's an extra step but, it's still 100% easier than what I was dealing with before!

Hi Ron... just saw your thread this morning... on your cropped boarder issue... you're referring to the live preview window and the "move test" files generated by Dragonframe in comparison to the actual full quality stills? 

The DSLR optical viewfinders of most cheaper models are definitely cropped, but I'm surprised you're seeing such an issue on the electronic live feed.

I have an older Canon T3i and the amount of crop is very trivial. (see attached file, crop in red).  My camera generates live feed images at 1056 by 704, later Rebel models (including yours) seem to be 960 by 640.  However, in both cases, they are 1:1.5 ratios as expected for the cameras stills (both our cameras make 5184 by 3456 full sized stills).


Jim Arthurs


Damn,  looks like Jim Arthurs is right, as usual.  I didn't check enough.

I just checked both my Canons.  The 7d, which says it has 100% view in the viewfinder, also has it in the live preview in Dragonframe.  I checked the full res image and the Feed in Photoshop as well.  The feed and hi res images match.

The 40d, which says it has a 95% view like your T5, does in the optical viewfinder, the crop is easy to see.   But in DF and when checking the live feed against the full res image, both have the same field of view.  It is not cropped.  (Actually looks like maybe 2 rows of pixels more on the right in the hi res image, but that's so tiny I can't even be sure. 

Actually, looking through both camera's viewfinders, you can see more on all sides if you move your head around,  maybe not quite to the 100% but pretty close.  If you move your eye to the left you can see a bit more to the right, but less on the left, just like looking through a window.  But with your eye in the centre of the viewfinder, you do lose the outer 5% all the way around.

So are you possibly not seeing the whole image in DF?  On the upper left in DF is a drop-down thing to adjust the scale of your preview,  I usually have it at 150%,  sometimes 175% which means my view does get cropped.  It's at the top left edge of your preview image.  Try reducing it, depending on the resolution of your monitor, to something that shows you all the edges.   Unless the T5  is different.   If the live feed image and hi res image when opened in Photoshop show the feed is cropped, then it is.

And if it is truly cropping the image, and you have the chance to return the camera body, I'd do so.  You certainly want/deserve/demand full view in light of the kind of work you do (live action/stop mo line up).  Canon sells refurbished bodies, and a T3i like mine is a good deal, (plus it has the slightly higher rez live view image)...


I bought mine refurbished a few years ago, and it has shot 50-60K thousand time-lapse frames with no issues.  It's basically the cost of a single roll of 35mm motion picture film, if you think about it.

When the format of this forum changed a while back, many things were lost.. here's a little review I did of a few styles of Nikon lens adapters... the bottom line is that cheap ones can be good, and expensive ones can be bad...


and a good test to demonstrate exposure differences between a fully manual lens and one with a controlled iris...


There is also a different style lens adapter that is designed for "Nikon G".  Any modern Nikon mount lens (except for the fully manual Rokinon style primes) will be missing a manual iris ring, but actually has a mechanical iris lever.  This lever can be set by the thumb slide on one of these adapters.  They also work with the original Nikon lenses with manual iris rings.  Here's a typical e-bay listing..



Jim Arthurs

Nick - All I need to do to check the crop is go into the folders for the images that have been captured and compare the preview images to the hi-res ones. I did that in order to make up that graph I posed above so, I'm positive it's a little bit less than a 5% crop. It's about 4.8%.

Jim Thanks for all the great info! I wouldn't return this Rebel T5 if I move up to the 7D simply because I got such a great buy on it. I paid less than $300 for it refurbished by Canon and the site I got it through gave me a $20 discount so it was a great purchase!

So I'll keep the 7D on my future shopping list but have no reason to figure out how to stuff all that packing back into the Rebel T5 box, I'm happy to keep it. :)

Ron, I wasn't suggesting to move "up" to a 7D, but sideways to the T3i... :)  It  would, apparently, remove your cropping issue, which will dog you with extra work on each shot for years.  For the average LEGO shooter, not a big deal... for VFX matching... a different story.  I'm still deeply puzzled as to why it's happening. I would post the question on the Dragonframe forum, or better yet, submit a bug report...

In truth, there's really no "moving up" to do with these cameras... only a full frame camera such as the 5D Mark 3 would give you options you don't currently have, as most of the changes/improvements (such as the 7D, etc.) won't impact stop motion or time-lapse shooters.  A full frame camera will give you more room to crop and experiment with field of view for matching live action.  But that's a big step in cost.  At least your new lens purchase will still work if you ever go that route... all the older Nikons are designed for full frame coverage. :)


Jim Arthurs

Jim I honestly don't see this as any real 'problem' because the resolution is just fine for my needs and a tremendous improvement over what I've been shooting with for years. I just wanted confirmation that the cropping wasn't something wrong with the camera or Dragonframe. Now that I know it's normal I can just make the adjustments to the frame sizes to match up.

I'm so happy now that I can use the chromakeying! I wasn't able to use it before because the resolution from the feed I got out of my Panasonic Lumix was so low resolution that the composite was just too ugly to look at let alone work with!

Unfortunately I don't have a Dynamation project in the near future but, I am thinking of shooting something for a new ad for my services and so I'm trying to come up with something to with the Cyclops from Sinbad The Fifth Voyage and myself as part of the ad. Even if I don't do that, I need to do something Dynamation just to practice with my new gear. 

Okay, I see. 

Well, at least you now have a way to shoot your live action plates for tests... while the video recording from these mid range Canon DSLR's isn't on par with any modern dedicated video camera, it's good enough for many types of things and you'll get great value out of that feature alone.

Hi everyone!!

Firstly, congratulations for this awesome community and forum! You don't know but you guys helped me a lot indirectly!!! I have been reading your posts for weeks and I have to say it..., all the info in this forum is GOLD!! Seriously, thank you all!!!
I am hoping that Ron Cole doesn't mind if I re-open this super useful post! Ron, if you do, please let me know and I will happily re-post a new one... (I am sorry if that is the case)

Secondly, Why am I using this same post? Because I am buying a T5 or T5i camera this weekend as well! So after reading many of your posts guys, I started looking for some lenses on internet... BUT surprisingly after talking to my parents about it (I live in a different country now), I discovered that they own a old Fuji and Nikon cameras!! Can you imagine my happiness at that moment?? yay!!! haha :D

So, I was wondering if you guys could help me out.... At least, I would need to confirm if I am right or I am just dreaming...... Which it could be the case probably...

These are the lenses they have:

1) Nikon Nikkor AF 28-80mm

2) Nikon Nikkor AF 80-20mm 4.5-5.6

For these 2, I already bought this adapter:

First question, are these 2 useful for stopmotion? I was hoping I can use the 28-80mm. I know it is a AF instead of a AI, but from my newbie understanding, since I am going to use it Manual, it doesn't matter... Am I right? :S

3) Cosina Macro 28mm 1:2.8

4) Fujinon 55mm 1:2.2

5) Cosina 28-80mm Macro 1:3.5-5.6

6) Soligor Macro 80-200mm 4.5

7) Cosina Macro 100-500 5.6-8. (I don't think I would use this one)

All of them are using a Fuji M42 screw mount. So I think I need to buy an adapter like this one... Do I?

IF I can use them, I was thinking to use the cosina macro 28mm, fujinon 55mm and the Nikon 28-200mm. But, Which one it would be better option, Nikon Nikkor AF 28-80mm or Cosina 28-80mm Macro?

I would really appreciate any help!!!!

.THANK YOU in advance!!!
And I am so sorry for the inconvenience I could have caused....

PS: obviously, English is not my first language, so I am so sorry about that too.

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