Hello, i just bought a flash forge finder 3d printer it only print pla peices and my question is even though  its not powder 3d prints will my puppet heads still look good on my vintage 55mm lens?

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i have seen heads and parts made with FDM printers, even commercials made with replacement faces printed on FDM and they look very very good. The only problem using this solution is painting. Compared with powder printing which uses gypsum as a base, at least in many recipes i have seen, where painting and tinting the powder is not a big problem, painting plastic is a little more problematic especially PLA, but not impossible for sure. You need to plan very well your prints, make simple shapes with solid walls and not to many fine details like pointy noses or ears or wrinkles, position your print so the supports are always in areas where the finish of the surface is not visible, calibrate your printer very well to minimize ringing,blobs,supports,etc, do not print very large objects since you do not have a heated build plate(maybe an upgrade is available?).

As for how they look on your vintage 55mm... i assume you are talking about Nikon Mikro 2.8 55mm macro lenses. They look fine. Come up with some designs, print them, use white PLA, it is much easier to paint, prime it, paint it and start animating.

here is an example that uses FDM printing for the entire film: https://www.facebook.com/bonemotherfilm/

Regards,

JD

thank you so much my friend.



Iulian Demetrescu said:

i have seen heads and parts made with FDM printers, even commercials made with replacement faces printed on FDM and they look very very good. The only problem using this solution is painting. Compared with powder printing which uses gypsum as a base, at least in many recipes i have seen, where painting and tinting the powder is not a big problem, painting plastic is a little more problematic especially PLA, but not impossible for sure. You need to plan very well your prints, make simple shapes with solid walls and not to many fine details like pointy noses or ears or wrinkles, position your print so the supports are always in areas where the finish of the surface is not visible, calibrate your printer very well to minimize ringing,blobs,supports,etc, do not print very large objects since you do not have a heated build plate(maybe an upgrade is available?).

As for how they look on your vintage 55mm... i assume you are talking about Nikon Mikro 2.8 55mm macro lenses. They look fine. Come up with some designs, print them, use white PLA, it is much easier to paint, prime it, paint it and start animating.

here is an example that uses FDM printing for the entire film: https://www.facebook.com/bonemotherfilm/

Regards,

JD

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