I would like your view on these before I take the plunge:
Nikon ai 24mm F2.8
Nikon AF 50mm F/1.8D
Nikon 55/3.5 Micro-Nikkor-P AI
Pico Dolly Kit (not sure if this will be stable enough)
I have a canon 1200d so I know I will need a lens adapter but I hope one adapter will cover all three lenses.
Thanks in advance
The AI lenses sound good - I'd stay away from the 50mm though - the AF means it's autofocus. But if you get the 55 you don't need a 50, and the Micro will do so much more than a non-micro. It's essentially a zoom lens with the quality of a prime.
I wasn't sure which Pico kit you were referring to - they seem to have several. Are you intending to use it for stopmotion? Generally you can't use a standard dolly for stopmotion - you need it to be able to hold its position precisely where you put it - with absolutely no wobble or jerk as you release it and freeze it in place - until you need to move it again. Those seem to just be standard skateboard-style dollies from what I quickly gathered, unless I'm missing something? Of course, if it's not for stopmotion use then disregard that.
thanks for the reply
yes you are right about the 50 and I have been reading up on the 55 a lot, so the 50 is a no go for stop motion. The Pico kit came today and in it's current state it is really just for footage but I will modify it at a later date so I can put it on rails, was actually just the base I wanted, it's very solid and well machined.
I recommend the Nikkor 55mm Micro - really good for closeup shots, the micro (macro) lets you focus much closer to the puppet than a standard lens like the 50mm.
A wide angle is also good for wider shots, the 24mm would be excellent. I got a 28mm first, because they are more common and could be found much cheaper in my country, but go for the 24mm.
One Nikon-to-Canon EOS adapter will work for all your Nikon lenses, but it's better to have one for each lens. That is because they attach to the lens first, then you attach the lens with adapter to the camera body. So to change lenses you have to take off the whole thing, remove the adapter, put it on another lens, then re-attach the whole thing. Not a big deal, but more convenient to just leave an adapter on each lens if you are going to be changing them often. I often find I am going back and forth between the wide angle and the 55mm lenses from shot to shot. You want the basic, simple adapter with no A F (auto-focus) Confirm electronic connectors. If you do keep the adapter on the lens when it is not in use, you want a Canon rear lens cap for it. If you get just one, and take it off the lens, the normal Nikon rear lens cap would go onto the lens not on the camera.
Mine have come direct from China, with shipping included in the price. Here's one, with Canon rear lens cap included, US $8.49 including shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-G-AI-AF-S-F-Lens-to-Canon-EF-EOS-60D-...
Hey thanks Nick,
will order another adapter, good tip. Getting the 55 tomorrow night and can't wait to try it out, the 24 I will be meeting the person I am buying it from next week the lens has never been used, hard to believe but from the photo's it does look like new
I will have a hunt around for caps as this also makes sense.
Really loving the 55. Have an issue with smaller aperture settings (f/22) I guess this is normal with the live view as the picture is very grainy (unusable):
http://i.imgur.com/REKhTiL.png (live view)
http://i.imgur.com/ZVSYckK.png (actual frame)
As you know I am a complete noob so I am just working my way around the 55 to see what it can do.
The live view will appear very noisy (grainy) with those settings, because it is using a lot of gain to give you a bright picture. (You probably had to turn the live view compensation up to +4 in Dragonframe, in the Cinematography window.) The actual image benefits from the long exposure to give it more light, despite the very small aperture of f-22 and fairly slow ISO of 100, but the live view is basically a video feed. Video has to capture in real time, so it can't take a long exposure of each frame. Instead it uses electronic gain to brighten it up, which adds noise. The only way to avoid that is to actually have brighter lights, so you don't need as long an exposure. But as long as your final image looks clean, and you can see well enough to animate, the live view doesn't matter.
You've got a pretty bright live view image! At f-22 and 2 sec exposure I usually get a view which is not only grainy but darker, where it can be very hard to see what I am doing. Maybe your camera does it better. I mostly shoot at f-11 and f-16. If I want to drop the background out of focus to put all the attention on a character in closeup, I open it a bit more. If I want really deep focus I'm more likely to use a wide angle, like the 24mm, as well as stopping it down to f-22.
So I guess it's all a balancing act between lenses / focus something I just have to learn.